Roads are an absolute must, of course, but so is respecting the culture & diversity across the length and breadth of our beautiful country
By Dhruv Behl

Check out our cover story for details. Suffice to say, we covered 1,452 kilometres in 24 hours – at an average speed of 61km/h. And that’s despite torrential rain and plenty of construction en route – which remains a constant on our highways for better or worse. But if it wasn’t for roads being built at a frenetic pace over the past decade-and-a-half across the country, we would still be struggling with single lane highways, a snail’s pace and mile-after-mile of chaos.
A couple of decades ago, I drove from Keylong in the Lahaul District to Delhi non-stop – a 700-odd kilometre journey that took almost 24 hours. Well, thanks to the Atal tunnel built under the Rohtang Pass and two-lane highways even in the upper reaches of the Himalayas, the same journey took less than half the time just a few weeks ago.
In fact, we drove to Ladakh, and all the way to Pangong Tso at above 14,000 feet – the highest saltwater lake in the world. In 2006, I did the same journey in my rally Gypsy during the 8th Raid de Himalaya – one of the greatest cross-country rallies of all time in my opinion – but my trusty Gypsy emerged battered & bruised by the time we set eyes on the pristine waters of the lake thanks to a treacherous route consisting of massive boulders, deep water crossings and thousand-foot drops. The contrast with the present couldn’t have been more stark. Even crossing Chang La at over 17,500 feet was an absolute breeze thanks to a road network that is now completely unrecognizable.

Although, it has to be said that I do miss the old days when the Leh-Manali highway was an actual challenge. I especially miss the Raid, when the organisers would close the road to convert the national highway into a rally special stage. It was certainly a different time. Naturally, there’s nostalgia for the narrow dirt tracks that we’d cover at breakneck speed with our hearts in our mouths. Don’t look down was the motto! Needless to say, for logistics, transport, tourism and overall development, smooth tarmac and armco barriers are a necessity.
Incidentally, the Wi-Fi password at our hotel in Leh was "responsible tourism." My only plea would be to communicate that message with as much purpose and intention as the drive to connect the far reaches of our country. As we modernise the face of this nation, we also need to be mindful to retain the essence of these most precious lands as we make them more accessible and approachable by way of the latest infrastructure.
Roads are an absolute must, of course, but so is respecting the culture & diversity across the length and breadth of our beautiful country.